PARTY PEOPLE

Story by Linda Giuca | Photo by Julie Bidwell

When we asked three local caterers to look ahead to spring entertaining, they were happy to put aside February’s frigid temperatures and snowy cover to anticipate the new growing season and happy occasions such as graduations, weddings and anniversaries.

The country’s economic woes may impact the size and budget for these parties, but they are still milestone events that folks will continue to celebrate. As party planners, these caterers will draw on years of experience and their creative talents to offer clients not only value but also a few surprises to make these gatherings memorable and fun.

Jay Ginewsky

Since he returned to his native Connecticut in 1981, the Whisk owner Jay Ginewsky has seen the catering dollar flow and ebb. In the prosperous 1980s, parties were lavish, either funded by corporate budgets or well-heeled individuals.

In this more economically challenged decade, clients are turning to a simpler form of entertaining. “No one’s going to be putting on the dog unless it’s a hot dog,” says the outspoken Ginewsky, but that more frugal approach doesn’t mean that parties won’t be fun – or the food interesting and delicious.

Clients are clamoring for more old-fashioned comfort food in these uncertain times, but they also appreciate a twist in its presentation. The goal of any successful caterer is to prepare dishes that leave guests marveling over the flavors. Their first impression, however, is visual, and Ginewsky understands the power of the “wow” factor.

“People are getting back to eating more simplistically, more comfort food,” he says. “If I do an event, [guests] are going to eat hot dogs and sliders faster than anything.” The Whisk gives these classic dishes a new look. “We take real food, like short ribs and mashed potatoes made with Yukon golds – and serve them in a martini glass. Or take grilled cheese and tomato soup. We serve the soup in a demitasse cup, and cut the sandwich into a triangle, which sits on top of the cup.”

Ginewsky has been immersed in the party scene since 1976 when he opened a catering business in California. “We started because my late ex-wife and I enjoyed cooking, and I hated the corporate world,” says Ginewsky who has a degree in psychology. “I took one cooking class in my life, with Simone Beck,” he says of Julia Child’s writing partner who taught him an invaluable lesson during the class. “She unmolded a flan, and it went ‘pffft,’ but she had another one in the back. I learned the greatest lesson of my life: Always have enough to back yourself up.”

The Whisk also has carved a niche as a kosher caterer, but Ginewsky is quick to point out that the menus and dishes are not that different from non-kosher offerings. Although ingredients such as shellfish and pork are forbidden, “anything can be made to be kosher and taste good,” he says. One of his greatest compliments came from a client whose guests “wanted to know how she snuck a non-kosher caterer into the synagogue.”

For spring entertaining, Ginewsky is thinking green – more micro-greens, varieties of lettuce and citrus. Those ingredients translate into salads such as greens, fresh orange and grapefruit slices and feta, or arugula, red onion and oranges with a citrus vinaigrette.

He also anticipates more requests for lighter fare and party set-ups that keep guests on the go. “No one wants sit-down meals at parties,” he says. To keep guests moving about and interacting, the served, multi-course meal has given way to a long cocktail reception with butlered and displayed hors d’oeuvres followed by a simple supper or stations of food. At food stations, guests might find a dim sum buffet or a Peking duck table where a server slices the duck and rolls the pancake to order. “Even at a fancy wedding, everyone wants [guests] to have choices.”

Russell Pryzbek

Whether a customer craves a stick-to-the-ribs antidote to cold weather or a taste of a cherished childhood dish, comfort food is the biggest to-go seller at Russell’s Creative Global Cuisine in West Hartford.

Owner Russell Pryzbek and his sous chef John Craig are happy to satisfy the demand for these classics, but as the days begin to grow slightly longer, Pryzbek is already anticipating the season of rebirth and the dishes that will grace party tables. “When I think of spring, I think of outdoor dining,” he says. “Everyone can’t wait to get outside and get some warmth.” Those warmer days will dictate menus that are lighter, more locally-driven and, if Pryzbek has his way, more healthful.

Pryzbek’s catering kitchen counts among its staple ingredients the Whole Hog’s Berkshire pork, raised in Roxbury, organic vegetables, and East Coast line-caught fish, a more sustainable fishing practice. The chef, who learned his trade in area landmark restaurants such as Cavey’s, the Reading Room and Shenanigans, also is toying with the balance of foods on a plate. “I want to promote smaller portions – 3 ounces of meat, fish and poultry,” he says of the serving sizes recommended by health professionals.

In Pryzbek’s hands, a more generous amount of grains and vegetables will offset smaller portions of protein. “Customers are buying into smaller portions and asking for locally-grown vegetables,” he says. “We use all kinds of grains – white and brown basmati rice, mixed grains, wheat berries, red and yellow lentils, and beans. Instead of two vegetables on our plates, there are now three, and one is always a green vegetable.”

In keeping with a healthful approach, the staff’s choice of cooking techniques has changed. “There is more steaming, less frying and sautéing, and more à la minute flavors, relying on infused oils and spice blends, particularly Indian and North African-inspired. “We’re excited about Indian spices and rubs, about North Africa, Indonesian, Malaysian, Mexican,” says Pryzbek, adding that sous chef Craig has become particularly adept at Indian cuisine. “The clarity of flavors is important; the layering of spices is important.”

Like today’s budgets and news articles, the spring party scene will face some editing. “People will still have graduations and bar mitzvahs, will get married or have a home dinner party for people from the office,” he says. “But they will tend to be a bit smaller.”

Serving appetizers passed by wait staff rather than displayed buffet-style is gaining popularity because there is more opportunity for portion control. “Maybe we pass hors d’oeuvres and have two food stations, which constitute a light supper,” Pryzbek says. One of his new ideas for a food station is the escargot bar, where guests choose the base – spiced basmati rice, grilled bruschetta, linguine, couscous with mango and papaya, or chive- or scallion-mashed Yukon gold potatoes – for a topping of garlicky snails or other seafood.

Interesting – and interestingly served – food is compatible with reduced budgets for spring parties, Pryzbek says. “Are budgets being watched? Yes. Are parties smaller? Yes. But, I’ve always felt and swear by the fact that people like variety and choice, and I can guarantee that they will walk away satisfied and full.”

Lori Hunter

For six years, Lori Hunter worked two jobs – and not out of necessity. She juggled her responsibilities as an academic dean at Wesleyan University with an up-and-coming catering business. “Sam’s [Club] opens at 7 a.m., and I’d be at Sam’s early in the morning, have something prepped and be at work [at Wesleyan] by nine,” she recalls. After a day on campus, there would be more cooking and prepping.

Hunter faced a crossroads in 2006, when her business, Sweet and Savory Creations, had “doubled and tripled and doubled and tripled. I thought, ‘I have to sleep a bit.’ I had two choices: shut down the business or quit Wesleyan.” The culinary life was the winner, although Hunter still visits the Middletown campus frequently to cater events.

Hunter has the kind of outgoing personality that instantly puts a client at ease. She also has a passion for cooking, but a food career “was never part of the plan.” As a teenager, Hunter hoped to attend the Fashion Institute of Technology to pursue fashion design. Her career path veered in another direction when she earned an electrical engineering degree at the University of Pittsburg. “If someone had told me I would be doing this,” she says, sitting at a counter in her catering kitchen in the Fox Run Mall, “I would have chuckled.”

Hunter’s circle of friends loved to cook, even to the point of hosting their own cook-off parties. She also realized that aspects of her training as an engineer translated to the catering business. When faced with a problem, Hunter takes a breath and thinks. “I don’t worry about Plan A or B; I’m already at M,” she says.

Her greatest strength is the ability “to manage processes.” Catering, she says, “is a manufacturing business; it’s a manufacturing process, and right now the output is food.” It’s that kind of reasonable, think-it-through approach that allows Hunter to master the “juggling act of balancing business and last-minute orders.”

For spring, Hunter will pair new ideas with signature dishes such as “That” Chicken. The pan-seared, herb-crusted chicken has become so popular, both at catered events and in her cooking classes, she bottles and sells the spice and herb blend. The chicken preparation is versatile. “We do it all sorts of ways – bone-in, boneless, grilled, in wraps, even as a pot pie,” Hunter says.

Other signature dishes are a sweet potato cobbler and an ultra-cheesy macaroni and cheese. Hunter serves this comfort food in a unique way: tucked into tiny tart crusts and served as an hors d’oeuvre.

The caterer enjoys mixing and matching dishes whose flavors complement each other. Spring parties will bring opportunities for oversized serving bowls of fresh salads. One of her most popular salads, which she often serves stuffed into tiny croissants, is a recipe created during a visit with one of her favorite cooking buddies. Raiding the refrigerator turned up leftover Cajun chicken, red and yellow peppers, celery, scallions and grapes, which she diced and tossed with a raspberry honey-mustard and mayonnaise dressing.

The salad has become an oft-requested dish among clients as well as an example of the familiar food with a twist that distinguishes Sweet and Savory Creations and its founder.

RECIPES:

The Whisk’s delicious chowder derives some of its richness and flavor from the caterer’s unflinching use of butter. Ginewsky says home cooks are welcome to scale back on the amount to suit their preferences.

THE WHISK’S OVEN FISH CHOWDER

3 onions, peeled and sliced
10 baby red potatoes, cut in half
8 ounces (2 sticks) butter
2½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon dill
¼ teaspoon white pepper
3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
½ cup dry vermouth
2 cups bottled clam juice
Bouquet garni: a few celery leaves, 3 bay leaves, 4 whole cloves
2 pounds scrod fillets (or other white fish)
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup milk

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Put all ingredients except fish, cream and milk in a large casserole with a lid. Cover and bring to a boil on top of the stove. Transfer covered casserole to oven and bake 30 to 40 minutes, until potatoes are tender.

Meanwhile, combine heavy cream and milk in a saucepan, and cook over medium heat until mixture has reduced slightly. Add the fish and reduced cream mixture to the casserole. Cover and cook for 15 minutes. Stir the soup to break up the fish before serving. Serves 6 to 8.

RUSSELL’S CREATIVE GLOBAL CUISINE’S
BASMATI RICE SALAD WITH FAVA BEAN
YOGURT DRESSING

Fava Bean Yogurt Dressing:
¾ cup fava beans in their shells
½ cup drained yogurt*
1 scallion, minced
½ teaspoon minced garlic
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1½ tablespoons cold water
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Basmati Rice:
1 teaspoon canola oil
2 cardamom pods, cracked with a spoon
1½ whole cloves
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
1 bay leaf
1-ounce piece fresh ginger, peeled
¼ cup medium-dice sweet white onion
½ cup basmati rice
1 cup salted water, heated to a simmer
Garnishes:
½ cup fresh spring peas
1 tablespoon canola oil
4 ounces halloumi cheese, sliced into 8 pieces (see note)
¼ cup fresh mint leaves, hand torn

To make dressing: Bring 2 quarts of salted water to a boil. Blanch fava beans for 3 to 4 minutes. Refresh beans in ice water, and drain. Remove fava beans from shells and discard shells. In a food processor, puree fava beans, yogurt, scallion, garlic, lemon juice and water until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Chill.

To prepare rice: Rinse rice 3 or 4 times until rice water runs clear. Heat canola oil in a small pot over medium heat. When oil is warm, add cardamom pods, cloves, fennel seeds and bay leaf. Toast spices 2 to 3 minutes. Add ginger root and white onion and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes. Add rice and simmering salted water, stir once and reduce heat to very low. Cover pan with foil and a lid. Simmer 17 minutes. Remove pan from heat, and let rest 5 minutes. Spread rice on sheet pan to cool. Remove cardamom pods, cloves and ginger, and discard.

To prepare garnishes: Blanch peas in boiling, salted water for 3 to 4 minutes. Refresh in an ice water bath, drain and set aside. Heat canola oil in a non-stick skillet over medium heat. Add halloumi cheese slices and sauté 1 minute on each side; cool.

To serve: In a mixing bowl, combine cooled basmati rice and half of the yogurt dressing. Add mint leaves and half of the peas. Divide rice among four plates, spooning the rice into the center of each plate. Garnish with halloumi cheese slices, and circle rice with remaining peas and dollops of remaining dressing. Serves 4 to 6.

*Note: Russell Pryzbek and his sous chef John Craig suggest using Elephant brand aged basmati rice, available at Cosmos in West Hartford; Sankow Farm yogurt, available at Whole Foods, and halloumi cheese, a Greek cheese available at Tangiers in West Hartford.

For the photo on Page 26, Pryzbek added two additional garnishes to the finished dish – blanched green beans and balls of steamed butternut squash.

SWEET AND SAVORY CREATIONS’
APRICOT AND APPLE GLAZED SALMON

4 (6-ounce) salmon fillets, patted dry
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

Apricot glaze:
6 ounces apricot preserves
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1½ teaspoons rice wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
2 medium Granny Smith or Gala apples, peeled and sliced

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Rub the salmon fillets with the olive oil, and season on both sides with the salt and pepper. Place in a baking pan, and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, then remove from the oven and set aside.

In the meantime, combine the apricot preserves, brown sugar, rice wine vinegar, salt, pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves in small saucepan, and cook just to combine. Remove from the heat.

Peel and slice the apples. Layer the apple slices in an overlapping pattern on top of the salmon fillets. Spread the apricot glaze over the apples. Return to the oven, and cook for an additional 8 to 12 minutes, or until the desired doneness is achieved. Serves 4.

Linda Giuca, the former food editor at The Hartford Courant, is a writer who lives in Deep River. Email her at linda@lindagiuca.com .